In dimly lit establishments that serve liquor, this fad seems all too likely to lead to embarrassing incidents. As my husband commented after viewing the bottle-cap silhouettes adorning the doors at Harvest on Huron, 217 W. Huron St., "I was only really sure when I spotted the urinals."

THE NAME OF HARVEST, which opened quietly a few months ago, evokes an image of the Iowa Machine Shed in the Quad Cities or maybe Prairie, when it opened with Stephen Langlois. Nothing could be further from the truth. The restaurant, owned by partners Oz Schoenstadt (of the erstwhile Oz on North Sheffield) and Tom Powers (ex-Marche), is all upscale, urban sophistication, as is the menu designed by Executive Chef Alan Sternweiler (Printer's Row, The Saloon, Cassis). Powers says he chose the name for the alliteration with the street name: "People always get confused in River North." A dark, burgundy interiors with jewel-toned batik lampshades and an art collection befitting the gallery-district neighborhood feature, as, unfortunately, do a lot of hard surfaces (read: noisy)....

Asian and Southwestern cuisines influence the American/fusion menu, which changes seasonally with minor tweaking in between. Sternweiler is committed to what's freshest and best in the market, he says, but he isn't above serving asparagus in November if something flown in looks good. Entrees run mainly in the $20 range. There's an extensive, if expensive, wine list and a big selection of spirits, too....

All three principals are very much apparent in the dining room. "I wore a tuxedo for 15 years," says Schoenstadt of his restaurant experience. "We're committed to quality food and service." Best of all, the restaurateurs' experience as late-night workers themselves has led them to keep their own place open late. Harvest is open from 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sundays through Fridays, 5;30 p.m. to 2 a.m. Saturdays. Reservations are accepted. Call (312) 587-9600.

PLAINER IN DECOR but not in cuisine is Chef Suzy Crofton's new restaurant, Crofton on Wells, 535 N. Wells St., Chicago. Crofton, another Cassis veteran, offers complex creations such as grilled venison on mushroom-arugula polenta with huckleberry sauce and barbecue-glazed, smoked pork loin on sweet and Yukon Gold mashed potatoes with Granny Smith and black walnut compote, largely American but with global influences. Entrees average around $17. It's open for lunch weekdays and for dinner from 5:30 to to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, till 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays....

Nov. 29 through Dec. 20, Crofton will offer afternoon teas from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays; $14.95 includes sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and raspberry conserve and desserts. Reservations required for tea. Call (312) 755-1790.

OUT AT THE EDGE of Bucktown, Cafe Matou, 1846 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, isn't fusion -- it's out-and-out French: chic, contemporary, French, with classic bistro fare such as moules marinere and grilled, herbed chicken, served with style a flair for seasoning by Chef/Owner Charlie Socher (ex-Brett's, Chez Chaz). Entree prices top out at about $16....

"Milwaukee Avenue is my favorite street in the city of Chicago," says Socher, who bought his building two years ago and waited for gentrification to creep toward it. The name means "tomcat," and sprightly felines accent the decor. Cafe Matou is open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. weekdays, till 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 9 p.m. Sundays. Reservations are accepted at (773) 384-8911.

ALSO NEW, TAZA, 39 S. Wabash Ave., offers freshly charcoal-grilled, citrus-marinated Amish chicken and a variety of international side dishes.

Rogers Park resident Joel Steinwald owns the new counter-service restaurant, based on a Middle Eastern chain. Taza is open 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, with breakfast muffins offered during the mornings. Call (312) 425-9988.

FANS OF FRONTERA GRILL and TOPOLOMBAMPO, 445 N. Clark St., will be delighted to know that the restaurants have expanded into quarters next door, adding another 30 seats to Topolobampo and enlarging the bar to give Frontera's long-suffering patrons a comfier spot to wait in. Call (312) 661-1434.

BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU, the bottling of the first vintage of this light, fruity, young wine, is a reason to celebrate, both here and in France. By law, the wines can't be released till just after midnight the morning of the third Thursday in November. Chicago celebrations include one at Brasserie Jo, 59 W. Hubbard St., Chicago (312/595-0800), which will feature a special menu of Beaujolais region foods, and Un Grand Cafe, 2300 Lincoln Park West, Chicago (773) 348-8886), which offers wine tastings and a prix-fixe menu Thursday, Nov. 20, through Nov. 28.

THANK GOODNESS, you don't have to cook Thanksgiving dinner. Many local restaurants and hotels are serving up the holiday bird and other festive fare, so if you prefer to make reservations, you've got a choice....

Among the more interesting: Chinese Thanksgiving at Szechwan East, 340 E. Ohio St., Chicago, offers a seven-course, $14.95 dinner including moo shu turkey, kung pao turkey, julienned sweet potatoes and Chinese vegetables in wine sauce from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Call (312) 255-9200.... Italian Thanksgiving at Avanzare, 161 E. Huron St., features a three-course dinner, starting at $30, including items such as free-range turkey with wild-mushroom focaccia, breast of pheasant with chestnuts or squash- and mascarpone-filled pasta topped with confit of duck and chanterelle mushrooms. Call (312) 337-8056.... Dark-meat fans will want to feast Italian-style on Chef Mark Donaway's roasted herbed turkey legs with focaccia stuffing and mushroom gravy, just $8.95 throughout November at Cucina Bella, 543 W. Diversey Parkway, Chicago. Call (773) 868-1119....

German brasserie Edelweiss, 7650 W. Irving Park Road, Norridge, is serving up a fairly traditional American turkey dinner on Thanksgiving for $16.95, but through Sunday, Nov. 23, they're hosting Jagd Fest, a hunters' festival of game dishes such as roast wild boar, venison schnitzel and rabbit goulash. Call (708) 452-6040....

Park Avenue Cafe's four-course, $48, family Thanksgiving menu includes caramelized onion flan with foie gras and lobster barley "risotto" with ham consomme, as well as roast turkey and dessert. A $52 prix fixe offers a bevy of appetizers, entrees such as roast goose breast with chestnut gnocchi and venison with oatmeal cake, poached quince and huckleberry sauce. Call Park Avenue Cafe, 199 E. Walton Place, Chicago, at (312) 944-4414.